Adjustable Strap

Adjustable Strap
What determines a bra strap (shoulder strap) length?

Is it the cup size? like are 36B adjustable straps longer than 36A?or is it more the band size (like 38B has longer adjustable straps than 36B)
(I know they are adjustable) but which one gets adjustable to longest and shortest the most.

The strap length is determined in the pattern development stage of bra making. Two things are taken into consideration, the girth of the body and the length of the body. A bra’s master pattern block, like almost everything else -is developed from a designer’s basic block patterns.

Here is a basic explanation. The waist/torso front and back pattern blocks are used. The rib cage measurement under the bust is used to develop the band size and it is graded evenly according to standard body measurements. This doesn’t change according to cup size. Cup size development is too complex to distill into a paragraph, this complex drafting formula is one reason why bras are expensive.

The strap is developed by basic body length, then graded out from there and it’s also surprisingly complex. The shoulder seams of the basic block are joined and the strap is determined from the line that goes across from center front to Armscye (halfway between bust point and the center of the shoulder dart) over the shoulder to 1.5 cm below the shoulder point line. This measurement remains the same no matter what the cup size as this body measurement is not related to the cup size. After the body length is determined there will be 1 cm added to the strap for each cup size. The assumption is that extra girth need extra length for coverage. There is some extra added ease for D’s and up. once they get to speciality sizes past triple D .5 cm extra is added. All the additions are in a graded scale and consistent. After all this the strap is made of elastic with an adjustable slide to ensure a flexible fit that compensates for any body variations..

The general rule of thumb in pattern development, whether for a bra or a dress is that smaller sizes require less length and larger sizes have more length added to help fit the girth. The master bra pattern will be used to develop fashion bras and a good master pattern should ensure consistent fit throughout the entire line. Developing these master patterns is a skill that requires extensive training in many disciplines relating to fashion design. This is another example that proves a real fashion designer does much more than draw sketches.

Like everything else in bra development, there are variations among companies and from one pattern making method to another. That’s why bras from different companies fit differently, they are developed from different master patterns.

Simple question, complicated answer!

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